Bolivia, l’oro dolce delle quebradas di Tupiza

Mercato di Sucre, Bolivia
Foglie di coca, a cosa servono
25 Novembre 2018
Sheryl Lopez
Cile, in viaggio nel deserto dell’Atacama
7 Aprile 2019
Ph. Martín Wayra

La miel de las pedras rojas de Bolivia!

Tupiza si trova al Sud della Bolivia, a un’ora e mezza dal confine con l’Argentina. È la città delle quebradas – forre –, un importante centro minerario da cui si estraggono argento, piombo, rame, stagno e zinco.

In questo luogo arido e affascinante è cominciata la mia spedizione andina con Tupiza Tours.

Prima di partire, sono stata due giorni nelle quebradas. Ho percorso a cavallo molti chilometri tra cactus e canyon, seminando la mia anima nel vento. Ho conosciuto umani dallo spirito antico che resistono al tempo e ai cambiamenti, e agli imprevisti della vita.

Martín è un medico veterinario, apicoltore, che ha deciso di ritornare in questa terra di confine e costruire. Quando Wilmer, suo cugino professionista d’alta quota con cui ho percorso milleduecento chilometri di Cordigliera, me lo ha presentato, Martín aveva il simpatico sombrero degli apicoltori, fatto di giunchi, elegante, che si posava preciso sul suo capo.

Era nella sua terra, tra le arnie colorate composte una sull’altra, e mi parlava come se davanti agli occhi aveva già il suo sogno realizzato. Più tardi, prese un piccolo tamburo dalla sacca della sua vecchia Honda e cominciò a suonarlo con la mano e a cantare una canzone d’amore finché non arrivò il tramonto.

Mi raccontò che quando lavorava nei parchi della Selva amazzonica, pensava più volte di ritornare a casa e tirare fuori dalla sua terra le risorse che gli avrebbero dato lavoro, vita. E lo ha fatto.

Martín adesso produce il miele di acacia caven – churqui in lingua quechua –, una pianta della famiglia delle carrube, nelle quebradas di Tupiza, e sta costruendo una casa per i viaggiatori che attraversano lo stato per andare in Argentina, per raggiungere il deserto di Atacama o anche solo per restare in questo luogo dove non esiste confine tra terra e cielo.

Dice: «Sarà una residenza, un rifugio dove poter fare campeggio, cominciare un trekking o semplici passeggiate, una terra in cui apprendere cosa si coltiva e come coltivarlo. Un luogo dove sogno un intercambio culturale. Dove voglio insegnare ai bambini l’apicoltura».

 

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